News Aug-10-06 

Halifax FTW

Rose and I got back from Halifax at around noon today. I just spent the last couple hours going through over 100 pictures.

So you know, Halifax was awesome.

We left last Friday afternoon at around 3PM EST and reached Halifax the next day at dinner time. I had originally talked Rose into taking the train in 'Comfort' class, which turned out to be anything but; we discovered this at around 11PM Friday night, when no conceivable position caused us anything short of excrutiating back pain accompanied by occasional circulatory difficulties. The "pillows" given to us had seams like razor blades, and the "blankets" were about as soft as ratty plywood. At 2AM Saturday morning I realized that sleeping on my dinner tray was perhaps the most viable option. I got about an hour of sleep.

On the upside, the styrofoam cup I had my morning tea in was really charming.

For our return trip, BTW, we went to the VIA Rail station early and asked the guy there if we could upgrade our tickets from 'Comfort' class to something with a bed. For an extra wad of cash he upgraded us to 'Comfort Sleeper' class, which actually came with free water (in a bottle, not in the fancy cup, sadly), a cabin to ourselves, a private bathroom, and bunk beds. To boot, the pillows we got from the upgrade were actually soft, and the blankets were duvet covers. So: if ever you travel VIA Rail overnight, do yourself a favor and get a sleeper-class car -- your neck and spine will thank you.

We stayed at the Prince George Hotel in Halifax proper, which is located on Prince street and is right by a hojillion restaurants, the city clocktower, and the harbour itself. Our room was OK for a 4-star place, though by far nothing amazing. The two restaurants they have in-house are ridiculously overpriced and pretentious, but we ate once at each regardless. The food was good, but Rose had a shitty experience with a fancy 'burger', so she might disagree with me on that. Whatever. Over the course of the trip we ate at SO many restaurants and every single one of them served seafood of some kind -- which makes sense, you know, but it was still neat to see. Fish is like fries over there, seriously.

We didn't know it when we booked the trip way back in March, but this past weekend was Natal Day weekend. The docks were full of folks milling around, checking shit out; there were tents and live music and tons of things to do. The ambiance rocked; a total party port-city.

When we weren't on a tour of some kind, Rose and I spent all our time walking on the boardwalk along the docks at the base of Prince street. Tons of boats are tied there, including the HMCS Sackville (a naval memorial ship we got the chance to check out) and the Silva (the ship we took out for a ride later in the week). It's like it's all right out of PotC, man, I swear.

Not so cool was the Harbour Hopper, which is an amphibious tour vehicle that we must've seen about 40 times during our vacation. Oh, and this. Really mood ruining.

Peggy's Cove, though out of the way, was one of the tours we took. It blew my mind. The town sign says 40 people live there...that's it; it's apparently one of the most photographed sites in Canada. However, the town itself looks just like you'd assume a 40-resident, maritime town would look like, so that's not what really blew my mind. What made me /love it is the sea. The Cove is on a little outcropping of land, its reknown lighthouse the last bastion before the crushing depths beyond.

So 'falling in love with the sea' isn't a joke. It's beautiful and huge and hypnotizing. I was shocked. Shocked to see it, to smell it, to hear it. It's so bloody inspiring, and frightening.

Phew.

We also visited Halifax Citadel, which was just up the hill from our hotel. We watched the changing of the guard (the guards there are hot); I wish I had pictures to show you of that in particular, but I don't have any remarkably good ones due to the fact that some terribly rude folks were hanging around in my view. On the upside, the Citadel was cool. The whole thing is just like (well, figuratively) it was back in the 1700s, with actors dressed up and guys calling out drills & stuff. Pretty spiffy.

On Monday we checked out the city gardens with the help of a tour guide who played the bagpipes for us all the way through (awesome!). After that we made our way over to the Titanic victim grave site and got a whole whack of extra info on that subject. Interesting to note that they sculpted the grave site to match the sweep of the Titanic deck; I'd post a picture, but some may think that over-morbid so I'll spare you.

I then purchased copious amounts of saltwater taffee.

And that was pretty much our trip. OK no, I'm not being entirely honest with you; we did spend one day sitting in our hotel room discussing the mechanics of dolphin sex while watching Jerry Springer and 4 consecutive episodes of Star Trek TNG. But that's it. Really.

KA